I had to get the engine up to replace a very rusty sump-oil-drain tube and whilst the motor was up out of the bilge I tacked a few other jobs. Having no facilities or need to remove the engine completely from the boat I devised a pair of 'A' frames that stood on the side decks with a strongback between them, over the engine. From this I slung a basic chain hoist with a 500kg capacity (the Beta 20 has a stated weight of 105kg). After disconnecting the engine's pipes, cables and wires and spending a whole afternoon unbolting the rusty clamp coupling and getting the mounting screws out the engine was ready to lift.
The engine was lifted up and turned through 90degrees and placed on blocks that spanned the cockpit floor frames.
|Engine now reasonably accessible|
Now, I have to say that in my opinion, none of these parts is really suitable for use in a damp salty marine environment; the drain hose is a standard industrial hydraulic hose and the crimped ferrule was just crumbling. Three of the four flexible mounts were totally 'minty'. I found that they were of Italian manufacture and are most commonly fitted to air compressors; made of pressed mild steel and cad plated. To try and prolong the life of the replacements I painted them thoroughly with zinc-rich primer and a few coats of machine enamel.
|Rotten sump oil drain connection|
|Beta engine mounts disintegrating in the marine environment|
|New engine mounted loosely fitted|
|Front of motor caked in belt dust - a well-know problem with these early Beta engines|
|New parts obtained and ready for fitting|
|Poly-vee kit fitted. A chunk had to be ground off the raw-water pump to let the belt pass.|
|Badly pitted prop, and worn shaft|
|Method of getting the old 'cutless' out|
|Winding in a new bearing sleeve|
|New 'cutless' in place|
Enfys has a pair of zinc anodes bolted back-to-back through her sternpost that appeared to be connected to the outboard bearing housing. Inboard there was a wire connected between the stuffing box and engine's gearbox.
I made some continuity checks and found that although there was a circuit between the anodes and outer bearing there was no circuit through the stern-tube - it was open circuit, which was quite a surprise! This fact, coupled with the fact that the cable between stuffer and engine was also O/C and that there is an insulating flexible member in the propeller shaft coupling meant that the prop had probably been fizzing away merrily.
What I did to mitigate this was to fit a 'new' anode to the hull with through-hull studs (more holes in the planking.. arrgggh!) which was connected to the stuffing box and engine by new cables. At the prop shaft coupling a stiff copper wire bridges the flexible member. Now, checking continuity the propeller and shaft are all bonded to the anode.
|Something odd - sterntube is corroding inside shaft log/sternpost - no continuity to the outboard end, too.|
|New zinc 'pear' anode fitted to hull|
|Connecting wires fitted to studs - backing pads will be needed at a later date.|
|Cable clamped to stuffer with a jubilee clip|
|Bonding wire connected to gearbox - flexi coupling was also bridged.|
|Engine back in place, lined-up and coupled|
|Engine back in place|